The Great Northern Spain Homecoming!
DATES OF DIPS: June 17, 18 & 20, 2024
Finally, I got back to Spain. I lived in both southern and northern Spain for 2 years back in my 20s; it had been13 years since being back. My husband and I went to where I lived and explored the wild terrain made for swimming and hiking. We also went on a week-long trekking tour through the oldest and largest national park in Spain, the Picos de Europa (with the same guide I went with back in 2009 [Rafa from Walk Picos!]). I can't recommend Rafa enough if you are looking for a hiking tour of the Picos!
Route
Asturias and Cantabria, Spain
Distance
1 mile in Isla, Santander at Playa El Sable and a few other adventure swims
Water
Coastal
Support
Husband, Garmin Forerunner 955 and buoy
The Northern Coast Road Trip Route: Bilbao, Somo, Santander, Oviedo
Revisiting Old Places, New ​​
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For years I had dreams of going back to the places throughout Spain that shaped me in my 20s, tracing my walking routes through cities I called home through my mind to sometimes fall asleep at night. This trip was an important part of integrating all of my past selves into who I am today. Spain - living in a new culture, learning a new language - represents for me the joy of exploration, coming of age, and vibrancy I feel through constant learning.
I first went to Europe at age 18 with my best friend on a classic month-long Euro trip, taking trains through Barcelona, Paris, Amsterdam and Madrid and partying until the wee hours.
After that, I fell in love with Europe and the Spanish language and culture specifically. Barcelona stole my heart. I'll never forget speaking to a cashier at the beach in Spanish and remembering I wanted to be back and feel this sense of awe and excitement again, and even more. I remember walking through the psychedelic streets adorned with Gaudi's colorful artwork and I knew this place had to be eventually named my home.
Just a few years later, I went back to Spain armed with my crappy high school Spanish and studied abroad in Alicante, living with a Spanish family that spoke no English. It was a constant struggle between the language and culture shock but I loved (nearly) every minute. When school ended for the summer, I went to Tenerife in the Canary Islands and worked at an eco-village/farm as a World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) volunteer for a month, spending my days wading through water in black sand beaches, cooking meals in the outdoor kitchen and pulling weeds. I also worked on another farm in Murcia and befriended a fellow French WWOOF volunteer who encouraged me to skinny dip in streams and run in the mountains when not working on the farm. After WWOOFing, I went on a hiking tour in northern Spain of the Picos de Europa, solo with a guide (Rafa!) because no one else signed up for it. I was lucky enough that Rafa didn't cancel it and I was able to have a solo trip with him hiking through the mountains and get a lot of Spanish practice.
After my time living in southern Spain, I finished my senior year in college and took more Spanish classes. Upon graduation, I went back again for a year. This time I went to the province of the Picos - Asturias -and I taught English in a Spanish secondary school, contracted by the Spanish government through the North American Language and Culture Assistant program. I rented an apartment with Spanish roommates who again, spoke no English, and lived in the capital city of Oviedo. I left that year feeling like Spain had truly become a second home.
Needless to say, for 13 years, I've had a soft, terribly empty space in my heart for Spain that could only be filled with a joyous homecoming and lots of sobaos, Fabada Asturiana and the limestone cliffs of the Picos.
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So, it was finally time. I signed my husband and I up for the same hiking trek (Walk Picos) that I went on in 2009 with Rafa which inspired me to move to Spain for that second time.
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In mid-June, my husband and I set out for Bilbao from Whidbey Island and rented a car upon arrival. We drove the coast directly from Bilbao to Oviedo, where I lived and taught English. We spent a few days there, enjoying the city and many cafe con leches and then left to head back to Bilbao by way of the coast, but for this direction we took our time and stayed overnight in both Lastres and Somo.
Once we eventually arrived back in Bilbao, Rafa picked us up and we started on that same 6-day trek through the Picos de Europa that I enjoyed back in 2009. That trip made me fall in love with Asturias and northern Spain specifically, and inspired me to move back again. This trip reminded me of the instinctual love I feel for Spanish culture and Europe specifically. Being in Spain always reminds me of being at my Italian grandmother and grandfather's dinner table, where I spent my years growing up in Connecticut.
I'll focus this post on the swimming we did along the way, since after all this is a swimming blog. We stopped at a number of beaches along the way but did not swim in all of them due to timing - I'll highlight a few that I wish I had time to swim in!
First Stop - Lastres, Asturias
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Along the way from Oviedo back to Bilbao, we first stopped in Lastres, Asturias and spent the night. In Lastres, we swam at Playa de El Escanu by the port and enjoyed the warm water. Lastres is a small fishing village built high on a hill - it's full of enchanting cobblestone streets and whimsical seaside apartments.
Playa de Gulpiyuri​
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Next, we had to stop at one of my favorite beaches of all time - the unique Playa de Gulpiyuri.
This beach exists within the middle of a field and is hard to find, it requires a bit of off-roading to get there. In 2009, I went there with my aunt and Italian grandmother who came to visit me in Oviedo. That time, the beach was empty and the water looked cold. It was unfortunately also low tide when we went.
The tide is critical for visiting this beach, because it's actually a little sandy beach that gets filled with seawater in the middle of a field. There is a hole in the rock where seawater leaks through from the other side of the cliff at the beach. So the beach fills with water during high tide and you can swim. We checked the tides with our Real Tide app before we went this time, and had a wonderful visit at the beach swimming through the rocks at high tide. While we were there, we imagined what it must have been like for the Spanish farmer who discovered this little private beach on their land one day!
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Llanes
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Unfortunately, we didn't have time to swim in Llanes at the town beach, but when we go back again (or maybe live there, I'm in the process of getting my Italian/EU citizenship!) I will be sure to swim there. There is a beautiful cliff walk called the Paseo de San Pedro in Llanes and Playa de Gulpiyuri is close, so it's worth stopping in the town for lunch on your trip. We walked the cliff walk that spans from Playa de El Sablon to Cabeza del Xicu.
If I were to move back to Spain, I would want to live in Llanes. The proximity to water and the Picos de Europa is unparalleled! I could easily imagine the turquoise, protected Playa de El Sablon as my regular OWS.
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Surfing and Swimming in Somo, Cantabria
After spending time in Llanes, we headed out to Somo in the province of Cantabria, which neighbors Asturias. We asked Rafa before we embarked on our journey where a good beginner surf spot was along the way, and he recommended Somo. Thank you Rafa!
Once in Somo, we got ready for a swim and unsuccessfully tried to find a good swim beach around the Dunas del Puntal. I attempted to swim at the Playa de Somo, but it was far too windy and shallow.
We ended up taking surfing lessons in Spanish at the same beach (Evan and I both speak Spanish). The conditions were much better for surfing vs. swimming. We ended up absolutely loving the town of Somo, it was quiet and had a surfing vibe that I had not experienced in Spain before. Somo is full of cute little cafes lining the beach and has an entire strip of surf schools.
Santander Beaches: A Swim Destination for the Future
Somo is a ferry ride or short drive over to Santander, the capital city of Cantabria. We ended up driving over to Santander to visit briefly and walked around the beaches of Playa del Camello and Playa Los Peligros. Both of them looked perfect for swimming, and I hope to return! There is actually a rock (pictured below) at Playa del Camello which people say looks like a camel at low tide, hence the name.
A Mini Swim Road Trip to Isla, Cantabria
Since our swimming adventure in Somo didn't quite go as planned, we decided to go to Isla from Somo for a short 35 minute road trip. We looked for the right terrain on Google Maps and found the protected Playa El Sable; we decided it looked like a good swim beach. Luckily, we were right! The beach was perfect, the water warm. We swam back and forth laps with our neon buoys across the cove for 45 minutes without wetsuits and everyone on the beach watched us and looked confused. We finally got a mile swim in!
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Afterwards, we got ready in the car (my favorite, it always stirs a sense of adventure and freedom in me) and enjoyed a delicious Menu del Dia at a local restaurant.
Revisiting the Picos de Europa
The trip to Isla was the last of our little swim adventures, and we were headed to the mountains. We trekked for 6 full days through the Picos de Europa with Rafa averaging about 14 miles a day at around 3000 feet elevation gain. We left Spain exhausted and thankful our bodies could take us on such a journey through land and sea.
For the last hike to Cabana Veronica, I ran 3 miles down the mountain alone ahead of everyone on our trip and felt complete freedom and gratitude. I trusted my legs would keep me safe and where I needed to go. I trusted my balance, my body for its wisdom over the years, my breath and my sense of calm.
Coming back to Spain was everything I imagined and more - I saw the entire landscape I fell in love with new eyes (and swimming legs) because I am different myself.